Ablauf für eine komplette Rennradüberholung

20

Ich habe ein Rennrad, das ich bald komplett überholen möchte. Im Laufe der Jahre und mit mehreren Motorrädern habe ich fast alle Komponenten überarbeitet, aber es ist mir nie gelungen, dies für ein gesamtes Motorrad zu tun, von Anfang bis Ende.

Gibt es einen optimalen Ablauf für eine Radüberholung? Oder spielt es eine Rolle?


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Ist es Ihnen wichtig, sich bis auf den nackten Rahmen auszuziehen? Oder ist es in Ordnung, jeweils ein System zu überholen?
Jay Bazuzi
Wird wahrscheinlich nicht auf nackten Rahmen ausziehen. Ich bin mir nicht sicher, ob ich muss.
Ich mag den Titel nicht, aber ich kann mir keinen besseren vorstellen! Gute Frage.
Neil Fein

Antworten:

11

Ich habe zwei Überholungs-Checklisten- Links, die großartig sind. Eine der Checklisten, die ich für den persönlichen Gebrauch modifiziert und aufgenommen habe.

Die erste ist vom United Bicycle Institute ( Checkliste als PDF-Link ) - UBI ist eine der führenden US-amerikanischen Fahrradmechanikerschulen.

Das untenstehende habe ich aus dem A Convenient Cycle-Blog (das Blog ist jetzt tot ...) geändert und verwende es in meinem persönlichen Shop.

Wheel Systems:
[ ] Front Hub bearings greased.
[ ] Front Hub bearings adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] Rear Hub bearings greased.
[ ] Rear Hub bearings adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] All hubs locknuts secured.
[ ] Hubs inspected for bent axles and external evidence of internal problems.
[ ] Rims trued laterally to .5mm tolerance or better.
[ ] Rims inspected for damaged or other work needed.
[ ] Tires checked for proper wear and damage, proper mounting, and inflation.
[ ] Wheels mounted in proper alignment and secure.

Drive Train System:
[ ] Bottom Bracket greased
[ ] Bottom Bracket fixed cup secured.
[ ] Bottom Bracket fixed cup secured.
[ ] Bottom Bracket adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] Bottom Bracket inspected for external evidence of internal problems.
[ ] Crank arms securely mounted.
[ ] Chainrings bolts secured.
[ ] Wobbling chainrings aligned.
[ ] Pedals lubricated
[ ] Pedals securely mounted.
[ ] Chain cleaned
[ ] Chain lubed and whipped down
[ ] Chain inspected for wear
[ ] Freewheel cleaned and rinsed
[ ] Freewheel inspected for wear
[ ] Freewheel lubricated.

Brake System:
[ ] Cables lubricated and replaced if worn.
[ ] Front Braking surface cleaned and checked for ware.
[ ] Rear Braking surface cleaned and checked for ware.
[ ] Brake calipers checked for mounting security.
[ ] Caliper arms and pivot/mounting bolts checked for damage.
[ ] Adjustable brake pivots adjusted for no play or binding.
[ ] Pivot nut/bolts checked for secure.
[ ] Brake caliper lubricated at pivots, springs, and cable adjuster barrels.
[ ] Brake barrels adjusters reseted.
[ ] Brake pads checked for wear and replaced if more than 50% worn.
[ ] Brake pad height set so as not to rub tire or hit partially below rim.
[ ] Pads set tangent [parallel] to rim.
[ ] New pads set with .5mm to 1.5mm toe to reduce squeal.
[ ] Pads clearance set to 1mm -2mm per side [except MTB type].
[ ] MTB pad clearance set so that when the pads contact the rim the lever clears the handlebar by a minimum of 1 inch.
[ ] Brake levers set to proper alignment and secure.
[ ] Brake level pivots, cable anchor pivots, and cable adjusters lubricated.
[ ] Cable removed and inspected for rust, frays, and kinks in the inner wire and housing.
[ ] Housings sized to proper length and ends finished with filing and end caps where fit.
[ ] Cables lubricated wherever they pass through housings.
[ ] Cable system stress tested by pulling brake lever fully to handlebar a minimum of ten times.
[ ] Cable end finished with cap or soldering.
[ ] Rims cleaned of lubricants and road grime.

Shift Systems:
[ ] Cables lubed and replaced if necessary
[ ] Rear derailleur removed and hanger checked for proper alignment.
[ ] Rear derailleur pivots, cable adjusters, and jockey wheels lubricated.
[ ] Rear derailleur inspected for damage and worn jockey wheels.
[ ] Rear derailleur mounted securely.
[ ] Front derailleur checked for proper mounting height and rotation.
[ ] Front derailleur checked for proper secure mounting.
[ ] Front derailleur pivots lubricated.
[ ] Derailleur cables removed and inspected for rust, frays, and kinks in the inner wires and housings.
[ ] Housings sized to proper length and ends finished with filing and end caps wherever they improve fit.
[ ] Cables lubricated wherever they pass through housings when appropriate.
[ ] Cables pre-stressed.
[ ] Chain length checked.
[ ] Rear derailleur limit screws set to allow shift to largest and smallest sprockets.
[ ] Rear derailleur checked for over shift at all gear combinations.
[ ] Front derailleur limit screws set for minimum clearance of the derailleur cage to the chain in high and low gear.
[ ] Front derailleur checked for over shift at all gear combinations.

Steering System:
[ ] Headset lubricated.
[ ] Headset adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] Headset locknut secured.
[ ] Headset inspected for external evidence of damage, wear, or loose cups.
[ ] Fork inspected for damage.
[ ] Stem inspected for proper depth insertion, alignment, and secure.
[ ] Handlebars inspected for damage, proper alignment, and secure.

Miscellaneous:
[ ] Frame checked for damage.
[ ] Seat post checked for allowable minimum depth of insertion.
[ ] Seat post secure mounting checked.
[ ] Seat checked for proper alignment and secure mounting.
[ ] Accessories checked for mounting security and interference with moving parts or safety hazards.

Test Ride:
[ ] Brakes checked for stopping power and squeal.
[ ] Bicycle checked for tracking problems.
[ ] Derailleurs checked for performance and over shift.
[ ] Chain and freewheel cogs checked for skipping under load.
[ ] Bicycle checked for unusual noises.
Gary.Ray
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2

Normalerweise beginne ich damit, einen Frame abzunehmen. Ich lasse die Kabel an, wenn ich nicht so weit gehe, nehme aber zumindest das Headset auseinander und nehme den BB heraus. Sobald ich es so weit geschafft habe, werde ich den Rahmen beenden und mich dann den Rädern zuwenden. Ziehen Sie die Lager heraus und überprüfen Sie die Kugeln. Besorgen Sie sich bei Bedarf neue und packen Sie die Naben wieder ein. Ich putze auch die Kassette an dieser Stelle, da sie größtenteils auseinander liegt.

Ich hatte noch nie Pedale, bei denen ein Umbau erforderlich war, aber ich glaube, ich würde es tun, nachdem ich die Kurbeln wieder aufgesetzt habe.

Dann setzen Sie es wieder zusammen.

kurzgefasst
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2

Da die Links im OP nicht funktionieren, finden Sie hier die Text-Checkliste und hier das PDF :

[ ] Front Hub berings greased.
[ ] Front Hub berings adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] Rear Hub berings greased.
[ ] Rear Hub berings adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] All hubs locknuts secured.
[ ] Hubs inspected for bent axles and external evidence of internal problems.
[ ] Rims trued laterally to .5mm tolerance or better.
[ ] Rims inspected for damaged or other work needed.
[ ] Tires checked for proper wear and damage, proper mounting, and inflation.
[ ] Wheels mounted in proper alignment and secure.
[ ] ALL DONE
[ ] SEE NOTES: Problems in need of further attention.
Drive Train System:
[ ] Bottom Bracket greased
[ ] Bottom Bracket fixed cup secured.
[ ] Bottom Bracket fixed cup secured.
[ ] Bottom Bracket adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] Bottom Bracket inspected for external evidence of internal problems.
[ ] Crank arms securely mounted.
[ ] Chainrings bolts secured.
[ ] Wobbling chainrings aligned.
[ ] Pedals lubricated
[ ] Pedals securely mounted.
[ ] Chain cleaned
[ ] Chain lubed and whipped down
[ ] Chain inspected for wear
[ ] Freewheel cleaned and rinsed
[ ] Freewheel inspected for wear
[ ] Freewheel lubricated.
[ ] ALL DONE
[ ] SEE NOTES: Problems in need of further attention.
Steering System:
[ ] Headset lubricated.
[ ] Headset adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] Headset locknut secured.
[ ] Headset inspected for external evidence of damage, wear, or loose cups.
[ ] Fork inspected for damage.
[ ] Stem inspected for proper depth insertion, alignment, and secure.
[ ] Handlebars inspected for damage, proper alignment, and secure.
[ ] ALL DONE
[ ] SEE NOTES: Problems in need of further attention.
Brake System:
[ ] Cables lubricated and replaced if worn.
[ ] Front Braking surface cleaned and checked for ware.
[ ] Rear Braking surface cleaned and checked for ware.
[ ] Brake calipers checked for mounting security.
[ ] Caliper arms and pivot/mounting bolts checked for damage.
[ ] Adjustable brake pivots adjusted for no play or binding.
[ ] Pivot nut/bolts checked for secure.
[ ] Brake caliper lubricated at pivots, springs, and cable adjuster barrels.
[ ] Brake barrels adjusters reseted.
[ ] Brake pads checked for wear and replaced if more than 50% worn.
[ ] Brake pad height set so as not to rub tire or hit partially below rim.
[ ] Pads set tangent [parallel] to rim.
[ ] New pads set with .5mm to 1.5mm toe to reduce squeal.
[ ] Pads clearance set to 1mm -2mm per side [except MTB type].
[ ] MTB pad clearance set so that when the pads contact the rim the lever clears the handlebar by a minimum of 1 inch.
[ ] Brake levers set to proper alignment and secure.
[ ] Brake level pivots, cable anchor pivots, and cable adjusters lubricated.
[ ] Cable removed and inspected for rust, frays, and kinks in the inner wire and housing.
[ ] Housings sized to proper length and ends finished with filing and end caps where fit.
[ ] Cables lubricated wherever they pass through housings.
[ ] Cable system stress tested by pulling brake lever fully to handlebar a minimum of ten times.
[ ] Cable end finished with cap or soldering.
[ ] Rims cleaned of lubricants and road grime.
[ ] ALL DONE
[ ] SEE NOTES: Problems in need of further attention
Shift Systems:
[ ] Cables lubed and replaced if necessary
[ ] Rear derailleur removed and hanger checked for proper alignment.
[ ] Rear derailleur pivots, cable adjusters, and jockey wheels lubricated.
[ ] Rear derailleur inspected for damage and worn jockey wheels.
[ ] Rear derailleur mounted securely.
[ ] Front derailleur checked for proper mounting height and rotation.
[ ] Front derailleur checked for proper secure mounting.
[ ] Front derailleur pivots lubricated.
[ ] Derailleur cables removed and inspected for rust, frays, and kinks in the inner wires and housings.
[ ] Housings sized to proper length and ends finished with filing and end caps wherever they improve fit.
[ ] Cables lubricated wherever they pass through housings when appropriate.
[ ] Cables pre-stressed.
[ ] Chain length checked.
[ ] Rear derailleur limit screws set to allow shift to largest and smallest sprockets.
[ ] Rear derailleur checked for over shift at all gear combinations.
[ ] Front derailleur limit screws set for minimum clearance of the derailleur cage to the chain in high and low gear.
[ ] Front derailleur checked for over shift at all gear combinations.
[ ] ALL DONE
[ ] SEE NOTES: Problems in need of further attention
Miscellaneous:
[ ] Frame checked for damage.
[ ] Seat post checked for allowable minimum depth of insertion.
[ ] Seat post secure mounting checked.
[ ] Seat checked for proper alignment and secure mounting.
[ ] Accessories checked for mounting security and interference with moving parts or safety hazards.
[ ] ALL DONE
[ ] SEE NOTES: Problems in need of further attention
Test Ride:
[ ] Frame cleaned.
[ ] Frame waxed.
[ ] Frame checked for damage.
[ ] Brakes checked for stopping power and squeal.
[ ] Bicycle checked for tracking problems.
[ ] Derailleurs checked for performance and over shift.
[ ] Chain and freewheel cogs checked for skipping under load.
[ ] Bicycle checked for unusual noises.
Notes: These problems could not be repaired and/or are in need of further attention;
John Hunt
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1

Ich beginne mit einem einfachen M-Check - was ist mit dem Fahrrad los? Listen Sie die Dinge auf, die erledigt werden müssen. Das bedeutet eine genaue Inspektion des Rahmens auf Beschädigungen / Risse - wenn der Rahmen abgeschrieben ist, ist das Fahrrad nur ein Teilespender und abisoliert.

Zunächst entferne ich alle fehlerhaften Teile und entscheide, ob sie nach einem Umbau repariert werden können oder ob sie ausgetauscht werden müssen.

Sobald alles außer Betrieb ist, was nicht funktioniert, rufe ich nach einem Urteil, ob es sich überhaupt lohnt, es zu reparieren. Vermeiden Sie es, viel Zeit in ein Fahrrad zu stecken, wenn dies nicht der Fall ist. Es gibt viele Fahrräder, und während Sentimentalität und Geschichte dazu beitragen, die Grenzen zu verschieben, müssen Sie dennoch selektiv sein.

Arbeiten Sie nacheinander an jedem Subsystem. Ich würde den BB perfekt machen und dann mit Kurbeln weitermachen. Dann Hinterrad, Kassette, Umwerfer, Kette.

Reinigen Sie immer die Dinge, bevor Sie daran arbeiten. Mit einem sauberen Fahrrad kann man besser arbeiten. Also machen Sie zuerst die schmutzigen Teile - das ist Getriebe, Radnaben, Radabdeckung usw.

Belassen Sie die Endbearbeitungsdetails bis zu einem späteren Zeitpunkt. Sattel, Bartape, Reflektoren, Innenkabel für Bremsen / Schalthebel und Bremsen befinden sich am Ende der Sequenz.

Schließlich testen Sie das Fahrrad. Sie sollten ein paar Minuten damit fahren, zuerst langsam, dann auf Touren kommen, die Bremsen testen und schalten.

Nach 4-6 Wochen werden Sie auch die Brems- und Schaltzüge anpassen wollen - sie gehen mit der Benutzung ein.

Criggie
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